Tanning Methods: Chrome vs. Vegetable Tanned Leather

Leather is one of the oldest and most versatile materials in the world, but not all leather is created the same. How a hide is tanned plays a major role in its feel, durability, and appearance. The two most common tanning methods are chrome tanning and vegetable tanning, each with its own advantages and drawbacks.

Chrome Tanned Leather

Chrome tanning was developed in the 19th century and today accounts for roughly 80–90% of all leather produced worldwide.

• Process: The hides are treated with chromium salts and other chemicals, which stabilize the fibers quickly—often in just a day or two.

• Characteristics: Chrome tanned leather is soft, supple, and flexible. It takes dyes well, producing vibrant colors, and is water-resistant compared to vegetable tanned leather.

• Uses: Because of its speed and cost efficiency, chrome tanned leather is the go-to choice for fashion items like jackets, handbags, shoes, and upholstery.

• Downside: The chemical process isn’t as environmentally friendly, and chrome tanned leather generally doesn’t develop the same rich patina as vegetable tanned hides.

Vegetable Tanned Leather

Vegetable tanning is the traditional method, dating back thousands of years. It uses natural tannins from tree bark, leaves, and other plant matter.

• Process: This method is slow—taking weeks or even months as the hides soak in tannin baths.

• Characteristics: Vegetable tanned leather is firm at first but molds and softens with use. It has a natural, earthy tone and develops a unique patina over time that many leather enthusiasts prize.

• Uses: Often chosen for belts, saddles, straps, wallets, and tooling leather where structure and durability matter. It’s also the preferred option for makers who carve, stamp, or emboss leather.

• Downside: Less resistant to water and stains, and generally more expensive due to the longer process.

Which Is Better?

The answer depends on what you’re looking for.

• If you want soft, colorful, and affordable leather for fashion or upholstery, chrome tanned leather is the practical choice.

• If you value craftsmanship, tradition, and character—and don’t mind a stiffer start—vegetable tanned leather is worth the investment.

In short, chrome tanned leather is about speed and flexibility, while vegetable tanned leather is about heritage and character. Both have their place, and understanding the difference helps you choose the right leather for your next project.